Get up close with these endangered giants on a once-in-a-lifetime tour in Hawaii
By Brenda Autry
The fear didn’t hit me until the boat stopped and they told us we had to jump in. Jump off the boat into the pitch-black ocean. In my head, I had pictured myself descending a ladder into the water and carefully testing it with my foot before slipping in. But now they were telling me I had to jump—no safety test, no ladder to climb back up if it didn’t feel right. Just immediate, full immersion. I took one last look behind me at the sun dipping below the horizon and thought, “If sharks were eating people, the tours wouldn’t be so popular.” Then I jumped.
I held my breath as I plummeted down into the blackness. The deck of the boat was at least 10 feet above the water, and despite the buoyancy of my wetsuit and the pool noodle looped under my arms, my head was dragged under by the force of my impact. The warm water enveloped me and although my goggles were on it was too dark to see anything below the surface. My snorkel dangled to the side—per our guides’ instructions—and I accidentally swallowed a mouthful of salt water as I resurfaced.
I caught my breath and paddled to the lighted viewing platforms—surfboards lined with PVC pipe railing and bright lighting underneath—while trying not to imagine what might be lurking in the shadowy depths below. I followed the person in front of me to secure my spot on the railing. I tucked my pool noodle under my ankles so I could float flat on the surface and adjusted my snorkel. The lights on the underside of the boards illuminated the blackness, and as soon as I slipped my face into the water, I realized I was inches from a giant manta ray.
There were two manta rays, moving in a circular motion, taking turns rising up toward the lights to sweep through the illuminated water, white bellies up, before completing the loop a few feet down. I wasn’t expecting them to be quite so large—or so close. Their wingspan was wider than the board, and their wingtips nearly grazed the people on either side as they soared past. The instant amazement of being so close to something so incredible and elusive made me squeal with glee through my snorkel. This feeling—this once-in-a-lifetime experience—was exactly why I jumped.
Kona, Hawaii is one of only a handful of places in the world where you can snorkel with manta rays. These endangered giants are some of the most intelligent creatures in the ocean, making them playful and curious. They’re also completely harmless to humans—no, they’re not the same kind that killed Steve Irwin; those were stingrays. Manta rays don’t have any teeth or stingers.
Watching them gently glide through the water is mesmerizing. They move in slow, effortless arcs, their massive bodies twisting with a kind of quiet grace that doesn’t feel real. It’s no wonder the Travel Channel names this experience one of the “Top 10 Things to do in your lifetime.”
The only catch? You have to do it at night. As a general rule, snorkeling in the ocean after dark is discouraged—even crazy. But manta rays are filter feeders whose diet consists mostly of plankton, and the specialized lights attached to viewing plantforms attract the plankton, which in turn draws the manta rays.
There are dozens of tour providers offering the night snorkel experience. Some offer higher-quality service, while others are more bare-bones. No matter which you choose, you can expect to pay between $100–$200 for a tour that lasts around two hours. Most of that time is spent on safety briefings, getting into wetsuits, and boating out to the snorkeling site—commonly referred to as “Manta Ray Heaven”—about 100 yards off shore in Makako Bay. You’ll only be in the water for about 30 minutes—but if you’re lucky, that’s more than enough time to see your fill of manta rays.
On occasion, some tours strike out and don’t see anything. For that reason, I recommend booking with a company that offers a guaranteed return (meaning you can go again if you don’t see mantas the first time). It’s also a good idea to schedule your tour early in your trip so you have time to try again if needed.
If you’re like me and not a fan of pitch-black water, many companies offer sunset tours. You’ll head out before the sun goes down, and there’s still a bit of light on the horizon when you get in the water. This is what I did, and the sunset views from the boat were spectacular—they really added to the overall experience.
Know Before You Go
- These tours do require you to be a strong swimmer. You’ll need to swim through open water from the boat to the viewing platforms and back.
- Manta rays can be seen year round, but January through March are winter in Hawaii and there are generally fewer manta rays during this time, and due to winter weather, the seas tend to be a bit rougher.
- Even if the boat ride is short, if you’re prone to sea sickness, take some dramamine. I’d never been seasick before, but when the boat parked parallel to the rolling swells, and the smell of diesel for the surrounding boats hit the back of my throat, I got my first experience with it. Laying flat against the water can add to the sickness as well, so take some just in case.
- Book ahead of time. These tours sell out, especially in high season.
- Manta rays are a protected species, and touching them is illegal. Your tour guide will instruct you on how to behave while in the water, but it’s important to be respectful and do your part to protect these amazing creatures.
Snorkeling with the manta rays in Hawaii was one of the most unforgettable experiences I’ve ever had. It gave me a new respect for these majestic animals and I hope I’m lucky enough to do it again one day.
