The Commuter

Exploring Europe’s Enchanting Christmas Markets

This article originally appeared in the January 2025 edition of The Commuter.

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Visiting Europe’s Christmas markets is like stepping into an enchanted winter wonderland. Twinkling lights illuminate beautifully decorated market stalls against a backdrop of historic buildings and grand cathedrals in cobblestoned town squares. The sound of carols and the heady scents of cinnamon and roasted almonds fill the air, bringing the holiday season to life. The markets are not just a place to shop; they are a melting pot of culture and tradition.

This year was my second time visiting the Christmas markets in Europe; I wanted to see as much as I could, so I created a rather ambitious itinerary for myself. In 17 days I visited seven countries, 15 cities, and over 30 Christmas markets across the continent. Though extensive, the trip turned out to be everything I hoped for and I had an amazing time experiencing so many different locations. 

One of the highlights of visiting different markets is discovering regional specialties and traditions. In Nuremberg, Germany, I tried the famous Nürnberger Lebkuchen (gingerbread) and a warm cup of Glühwein (spiced mulled wine) which was perfect for sipping while browsing stalls filled with hand-carved wooden ornaments. In Prague, the must-try dessert is the famous trdelník (chimney cake), a treat replicated throughout Europe, though none quite compare to the original. My favorite experience, however, was watching the Krampus Run in Salzburg, Austria.

The tradition is thought to date back centuries to pre-Christian Alpine cultures, with Krampus serving as a figure meant to frighten children into behaving, complementing St. Nicholas, who rewarded the good ones. This modern take, which sees dozens of elaborately costumed Krampuses from surrounding villages run through the streets and markets of Salzburg whipping tourists — much to their delight — began in the late 20th century as a way to preserve and showcase this regional folklore.

Exploring the markets is like stepping back in time. Many date back centuries, originally serving as humble gatherings where locals would prepare for the winter season. Today, each market offers a uniquely festive atmosphere, drawing both locals and visitors to celebrate the season and immerse themselves in centuries-old traditions.

My favorite markets were in the smaller historic towns, like Rothenburg ob der Tauber. This medieval walled city lovingly preserves its traditions, dating back to the 15th century. The half-timbered town square provides the perfect setting for the charming medieval market, where visitors can indulge in old-fashioned regional delicacies.

In contrast, I found larger cities like Brussels and Paris less enjoyable. While they attempt to blend the old with the new, infusing their markets with ice skating rinks, ferris wheels, and elaborate light shows, it often ends up feeling more commercial than magical. The addition of modern attractions takes away from the authentic, timeless charm that defines the smaller, historic markets.

One city, however, excels at preserving the history and tradition of its markets while offering the excitement of contemporary festivities. Vienna, Austria sets the gold standard for what a well blended Christmas market should be. With half a dozen markets scattered across the city — set in the courtyards of palaces, along the streets, and in front of the town hall — Vienna delivers a sense of awe and enchantment at every turn that completely won me over.

As a photographer, the Christmas markets are a dream come true. The already photogenic town squares of some of the most beautiful cities in the world are dressed in their holiday best, providing endless inspiration. The warm glow of lights and bustling crowds create countless opportunities to capture the magic of the season. 

I loved my trip to the Christmas markets because they’re more than just a feast for the senses — they’re a joyful celebration of tradition and holiday spirit, leaving a warmth that lingers long after the season fades. I can’t wait to return again.


Steal my itinerary!

Fly round-trip from Portland to Paris (It’s cheaper, $750-900), then fly from Paris to Prague ($100).

Be sure to book everything at least four months in advance for the best selection and prices. Many hotels are sold out by the end of August.

Most Christmas markets are open from the end of November until Christmas Eve, but double check each city before booking travel. 

Day 1-3: Prague, Czech Republic

Day 3: Bratislava, Slovakia (Stopover)

Day 3-5: Budapest, Hungary

Day 5-7: Vienna, Austria

Day 7: Hallstatt, Austria (Day Trip)

Day 7-9: Salzburg, Austria

Day 9-10: Munich, Germany

Day 10-11: Nuremberg, Germany

Day 11-12: Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

Day 12-14: Strasbourg, France

Day 14-15: Cologne, Germany

Day 15: Brussels, Belgium (Day Trip)

Day 15-18: Paris, France


Total Hotel Costs (17 Nights):

Estimated Flights: $1,000

Estimated Trains: $500 – students can get a significant discount on a Eurail Pass

Estimated Food Costs: $750

Estimated Activity Costs: $650

Grand Total for One Person:

Budget: $4,500–$5,200
Midrange: $5,330–$6,440

Total per person (based on double occupancy):

Budget: $3,700–$4,050
Midrange: $4,115–$4,670

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